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Lucia while the French had a secure foothold on Martinique.

The British figured out that a gun battery on Diamond Rock would effectively blockade the southern approaches to Fort De France.

There were only two survivors—a convicted murderer in the town jail, and a shoemaker.

More than a century later, we saw little evidence of the disaster onshore as we approached the anchorage, but there was plenty on the water. The town was rebuilt on and around the ruins of the old city, though it never recaptured its former importance; commerce and shipped moved to Fort de France in the south. Pierre is just a pleasant, laid-back town where nothing much seems to happen, and just as well too: Mt.

We finally managed to clear in here, at the local tourist office, where the language barrier succumbed to sign language and schoolboy French, and then visited the nearby museum, a one-room affair filled with poignant reminders of the 1902 catastrophe.Though never really long enough for a decent vacation, a week is a longer time in some Caribbean destinations than others. The four of us—Dan, Tim, Nat and me, all presently or formerly of Marblehead, Massachusetts—picked up our Sunsail Leopard 44 catamaran in early December at Rodney Bay Marina on St. This is the finish point for the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, and the fastest of the 200-plus entrants were already docked at the marina when we arrived, with more arriving daily.In the compact BVI, for instance, you can go a lot of places in a week. The bars and restaurants dockside were crowded with bronzed sailors speaking a dozen languages and children ran laughing along the waterfront, noisily relishing the chance to stretch their legs after weeks at sea.On Saturday we stocked up at the excellent supermarket nearby and filled out the copious paperwork to clear out of St.Lucia, and on Sunday morning we motored out of the narrow cut separating the marina from Rodney Bay proper and made sail.

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